Next to us, two younger ibex came prancing over the shallow part of the river, locking horns in a mock fight, followed by a timid chamois My friend and I looked at each other in disbelief. While walking there one evening, we felt a startling presence appear 3ft above us: an ibex with curving horns, matted fur – which he was shedding in sheets – and the maddest, most glittering, amber eyes. Although it’s displayed in every bar, I’ve never seen anyone to drink it.
Best for an all-over tanThe Aphrodite-Apollo thermal park at St Angelo on Ischia is a relaxing place to spend a spring day. It has a series of 12 thermal pools (with water at different temperatures), natural saunas in caves, a secluded nude sunbathing spot (which is rare for Italy), and a volcanically-heated beach, hot enough to cook food if you bury it in the sand.Wildlife momentThe Gran Paradiso park is a protected mountain area near the border with France. As for best drink, other than some wonderful wine, I liked the flavoured grappas: gentian, plum and mountain herb are some of the most interesting.
The one drink that has always remained inexplicable to me is Cynar, a digestif made from artichokes. Best food
Lasagne con ortiche – sheets of pasta layered with a sauce flecked with nettles. An Emilia-Romagnan combination I’d never had before was ice cream with a really beautiful balsamic vinegar. A cottage for two costs from pounds 255 to pounds 270 per person, including transfers from Split, seven nights’ accommodation, taxes, service of a boatshop twice weekly, and fuel.FURTHER INFORMATIONCroatian National Tourist Office (tel: 0181-563 7979).. Transun (tel: 01865 798888) offers weekly flights to Split from pounds 179 including taxes.WHERE TO STAYKornati Island Escape Packages are available from Europa Skylines (tel: 0171-226 4460). Through the binoculars I could make out the dot of the boat that had brought me I had company. It must be Friday – and Friday was the day I was going home.CROATIAN ISLANDSGETTING THERECroatia Airlines (tel: 0181-563 0022) offers daily flights to Split via Zagreb from pounds 189 plus pounds 31 tax until 15 June.
Fishing was moderately better with a few bony sea bream and a couple of Jacks.Walking was kept to a minimum although tough shoes were essential on the rocky limestone pathways between the abundant clusters of rosemary, juniper, lavender, thyme, myrtle and sage.Then, one morning, I heard the throb of a diesel. It was a bad contest with the same daily result: Adriatic One, Guy Nil. Clothes were as pointless as the money that lay beside them on the floor.Crusoe explored, so did I. Mornings were busy with snorkelling, fishing and relocating my home-made foldaway prawn trap with hopes of a good catch.