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So the area has become a prime spot for openings and Harvey Nicks has followed

Posted on 01 August 2010

So the area has become a prime spot for openings, and Harvey Nicks has followed suit

Their new outlet, Prism, opened on 26 April. Appropriately, the restaurant is in the converted premises of the Bank of New York, an elegant space with wonderful acoustics that allows people to discuss their finances in loud voices without sharing them with everyone else.
There’s a lovely, warm style bar in the basement with moleskin leather banquettes, an adventurous array of cocktails and a pleasantly un-braying feel. If there’s a criticism to be made, it’s that the whole place has been geared to feeding people in the lunchtime rush and doesn’t slow down in the evening: it can be quite startling to get your starter before you’ve had a chance to drink more than a couple of sips of wine.Chef Simon Shaw (above) has come down from the Fourth Floor in Leeds, and seems to be enjoying the transition. Starters at pounds 6.50-pounds 12.50 and mains at pounds 9.50-pounds 14.50 cover a good range of flavours. A tempura of Whitby cod with pea puree was a clever twist, and a croustade of mushroom duxelle had a lovely runny poached egg to mash into the pastry. There’s sausage and mash for the diehard blokes in your party (Jeremy Clarkson was in when we were), but we had peppered haddock and brandade cake with mustard seed sauce, and a cheering combination of seared scallops with Chinese duck dumpling, chilli and soy All very light, wholesome and energy-promoting.

Fortunately, as you would expect from a Northern chef, the chips we had on the side were excellent.Prism, 147 Leadenhall St, London EC3 (0171-256 3888)SQUARE-MILELITEAlba 107 Whitecross St, London EC1 (0171-588 1798)Suan Neo 31 Broadgate Circle, London EC2 (0171-256 5044)Cantina del Ponte Butlers Wharf Building, 36c Shad Thames, London SE1 (0171-403 5403). Apparently there’s more to Lambeth than a silly walk. I’ve heard talk of a tapas bar that’s “fantastic” and “unique”, with a “huge local following”. So I’ve combined two of my favourite pastimes – travelling and eating – and headed south for a taste of Spain

First impressions are not promising. I’m shepherded along gloomy, silent South Lambeth Road, past a huddle of dubious characters by an off-licence, before being thrust through the doors of number 169 for a spooky culture- warp experience. So this is where everyone’s got to! Rebato’s is packed with friendly young punters clustered around small tables, in a party atmosphere redolent of a proper Spanish bar – and I’m talking real Spain, not your themed affair manicured for English sensibilities.
Large-girthed waiters give us a warm welcome, and somehow spirit up a table for six. My Lambeth-local Vincent gives me an enthusiastic tour of the tapas menu, while his brother, Vernon, a long-time resident of Spain, delights in the wine list: Rebato’s long-standing relationship with the Torres label has resulted in a good selection of bottles (with a choice of 12 Spanish brandies, for hardier clients).We ordered a healthy spread, which arrived with a teetering mountain of bread.

Vincent monopolised the octopus (pulpo): “because it’s not too chewy and has lots of flavour”. Gambas, too, met with his hearty approval: “very good; very rich and garlicky”. Our token vegetarian, Verity, had ordered enough dishes to satisfy, though wrestling them from Vincent was problematic. Artichoke hearts? “Dripping in a vinegar sauce; lovely!” he mumbled, while eyeing up her patatas bravas. These really were for the brave – too spicy for me, despite the creamy mayonnaise.

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