Men's Jewellery Glossary - An A-Z of jewellery terminology used in men's jewellery

ALLOY:
A material constructed from 2 or more metals, or one metal and an additional compound. For example, 925 Sterling silver (92.5% silver & 7.5% Copper)

ASSAY:
A test is performed upon metal to guarantee the purity of alloys such as gold and silver. This enables a piece of metal to be hallmarked and authenticated.

ANTIQUING:
This is the process of darkening metal along the recesses to enable an aged look.

ARTICULATED:
A piece of jewellery with a hinge or join which allows the piece to move.

BAIL:
This is a triangular link which attaches a pendant or charm to a necklace or chain.

BAND:
A band is a style of ring constructed from a thin or wide flattened strip of material. They can be left plain of adorned.

BANGLE:
A fixed round strip of material which forms a hoop. This hoop can be whole and slipped over the hane or in parts with a hinge to allow it to be worn.

BAROQUE:
Irregular shaped stones and gems.

BASE METAL:
A non-precious metal which can be used to form an alloy with a precious metal , for example: copper, zinc and tin.

BELL-CAP:
A cap which is usually glued or soldered onto a pendant, charm or stone/gem which can then be linked to a piece of jewellery with the jump loop that is attached to the top of the cap.

BEVELLED:
A surface of material that has been cut to an angle less than 90 degrees.

BEZEL:
A surface of a stone or gem which protrudes above its setting.

BEZEL SETTING:
The piece of metal which sets and holds a stone.

BONE:
A natural material sourced from animal bones, can be used as an imitation of ivory as only subtle colour and structure differences with bone being less sophisticated.

BRACELET:
Can be defined loosely as an piece of jewellery around the wrist including bangles, cuffs, beaded, charm etc. However most commonly used to describe a linked bracelet such as the ID.

BRASS:
Is a metal alloy which is constructed from at least 50% copper and zinc.

BRIDGE JEWELLERY:
Is jewellery that sits between inexpensive fashion jewellery and fine jewellery for example sterling silver.

BRONZE:
A metal alloy which contains at least 60% copper, tin and other metals.

BRUSHED:
Fine parallel lines are cut into the surface of metal using a brush or polishing device to create a matte effect.

CABOCHON:
A stone which has been cut with one rounded face.

CARAT:
This is the measure of gold purity. The purity is measure on a scale of 24 carats so for example 9K gold is 9 out of 24 or 37.5%.

CASTING/CAST:
The process of pouring liquid metal into a mould to cast a shape for jewellery.

CHAIN:
A series of links of hoops that are connected to one another to form a length.

TYPES OF CHAIN:

FIGARO CHAIN: Has flattened links which alternate in size whereby every 2nd or 3rd link is longer than the link in-between.
ANCHOR CHAIN:  Is constructed from flattened oval link with a central cross bar, much like the chain used on a vessel.
BEAD CHAIN: Small beads or balls make up the ball chain they can be sat next to one another or spaced in between lengths of chain of cylindrical beads.
BOX CHAIN: Square, wide strips of metal construct & lsquo box like& rsquo links.
BYZANTINE (BIZANTINE) CHAIN: Is an elegant and intricately constructed chain. Oval/round links are paired together and linked to other pairs to create a textured chain.
CABLE CHAIN: Simple oval or round, uniform hoops make up this chain.
HERRINGBONE CHAIN: Flat, short links, slant alternating row by row. The name relates to the Herring fish spine.
INFINITY CHAIN: The links of this chain look like the figure & lsquo 8& rsquo
OMEGA/SNAKE CHAIN:  This is an alternative to a linked chain. The chain is formed from rounded plates sting closely next to each other along a supportive chain, wire or thread.
POPCORN CHAIN: A wider style chain made up from small rectangular or square plates connected together to form a strip.
ROPE CHAIN: Oval links are linked together in a special way in order for them to twist and form a rope or string like pattern.
ROSEMARY CHAIN: Traditionally used for a rosary. It sit in a & lsquo Y& rsquo shape and is typically constructed from beads.
WHEAT CHAIN: Four oval links are connected and twisted to braid and weave a textured chain.

CHARM:
An additional piece or pendant like product which links to a bracelet or a ring.

CHOKER:
A necklace which sits at less than 14" long.

CLASP:
A link which is used to open and close a chain or length of material constructing such things as a necklace or bracelet.

TYPES OF CLASP:

BARREL: 2 cylindrical shaped pieces which twist closed to create a barrel shape.
BOX: A square or rectangle Flat box encloses a folded piece of metal which has to be pressed down to unfasten the clasp.
COIL: Typically found on leather or rubber necklaces/bracelets. Wire or metal is spiralled around the tip of the material and then finished with a single loop in which a spring or hook clasp will attach.
FOLD-OVER: A rectangular shaped clasp where the top layer folds over the bottom to fasten.
HOOK & EYE: A hook shaped piece of metal threads through a single loop (eye).
LANYARD:  Also know as a safety clasp as the opening can only move one way. There is a hook with a small opening which has to be pressed in to open and let go to close.
LOBSTER: One of the most common types of clasp used. An oblong shape clasp with a small lever which opens the mouth of the clasp.
MAGNETIC: looks much like a barrel clasp but has no twist function. The 2 pieces are simple magnetically attracted to one another.
& lsquo S& rsquo or BALI: The clasp is literally an & lsquo S& rsquo shape and hooks through small metal hoops on both sides.
SPRING RING: One of the most common clasps used. A small hoop has a smaller opening which opens using a spring loaded lever.
SNAP: One side is concave and one side is convex and the 2 piece snap together like a popper.
TOGGLE:  A circular ring makes up one half of the clasp along with a horizontal bar which threads through the hoop to fasten a length of material.

COPPER:
A malleable and ductile metal used as jewellery and as an alloy to strengthen more soft metals such as Silver (92.5% silver & 7.5% Copper)

CUFFLINKS:
A piece of jewellery used to fasten cuffs on formal shirts. A small supporting bar is thread through the buttonhole of a sleeve and a head of the cufflink is used as a barrier and a smaller head is used as the back of the link. Cufflinks can fasten using a hinge or can be fixed with a smaller back to thread through the shirt.

CUFF BRACELET (AKA Horseshoe):
A rigid strip of metal which wraps around the wrist. There is a small opening in which the side of the wrist is passed through to take it on and off.

DOG-TAG:
Traditionally used as identification for soldiers in battle, dog-tags are single, rectangular plates suspended from a silver ball chain and are one of the most popular necklaces fro a man due to its connotations and simple design.

ELECTRO PLATING:
An electric current is passed through a metal to adhere another metal (Most often gold) to the surface.

EMBOSSING:
A pattern or image is stamped into a plain, flat surface of metal. This technique leaves the image in relief making a raised picture.

ENGRAVING:
A sharp tool or laser indents metal with an image, lettering or design.

ETCHED SURFACE:
A sharp tool cuts ridges into a metal reducing its reflectivity and increasing texture.

FACET:
A side or flat surface of a cut stone.

EXTENDER CHAIN:
An additional length of chain is positioned at the end of a necklace or bracelet to allow the clasp to attach itself at a customised length.

FORGING:
Shaping metal considerably using such tools as a hammer. Heat can be used on some metals to enable this or such metals as silver which is sift can be manually forged.

FUSING:
Joining 2 pieces of metal together without soldering. The actual surface of the metal melts under heat.

GILT:
Gold Plated metal or other material.

GIRDLE:
The circumference of a gemstone.

HALLMARK:
Once the purity of a precious metal has been authenticated by the London Assay office a small stamp or hallmark is made into the silver to certify its purity. The hallmark consists of the date of manufacture and who made the product.

HAMMERED:
A silver or metal hammer is used to gently hit the surface of a metal and texture it with a mottled or dimpled look.

ID BRACELET:
A linked bracelet with a flat panel sitting in the centre which can be used to engrave names or dates on.

JUMP RING:
A small wire hoop/ring which connects charms or pendants to necklaces or chains. This hoop is generally not fused or soldered.

LINKS:
The single sections/hoops of what makes a chain.

MALLEABLE:
A metal that has a soft property whereby it can be moulded or hammered with some ease. These metals usually do not contain iron.

MATINEE  LENGTH:
A chain which sits at 56cm/22" and 58.5cm/23" in length.

MATTE FINISH:
The surface of a metal is polished or brushed to reduce the reflectivity and create a non-shine finish.

MOUNTING:
A casing around a gem stone which holds it in place.

METAL:
A material which has the ability to conduct heat and electricity. It can be manipulated under extreme heat and pressure. There are common metals such as copper, tin and iron and also precious metals such as silver, gold and platinum.

NECKLACE:
A piece of jewellery that is worn around the neck. A necklace can be any length and constructed from numerous types of materials and links.

ONYX:
A cryptocrystalline quartz, semi-precious stone which can be black or white.

OBSIDIAN:
A volcanic stone formed from fast cooling lava. This creates a usually black stone.

OPERA:
A chain length from 76.2cm/30" to 88.9cm/35".

OVERLAY:
2 pieces of silver are soldered together. The lower level is usually oxidised and darkened to highlight the overlay detailing.

OXIDISATION:
Is the treatment of silver with a chemical process. The surface of the metal tarnishes after being exposed and reacted to sulphur and oxygen.

PENDANT:
An ornament or piece that is suspended from the chain or necklace, it can be singular or in multiples. They can be used as decoration or identification.

PIERCED:
A piece of metal that has had a hole completely cut through it.

PLATING:
Another metal is layered over another metal using an electric current. Thickness of the layer varies according to the metal and the expense of the metal used.

PRECIOUS STONES:
A stone or gem stone that has value according to its durability, structure, rarity and attractiveness. A they are natural the stones are cut and polished to form such things diamond, emerald, ruby and sapphire. There are also semi-precious stones which are less rare such as amethyst, opal and topaz.

QUARTZ:
A  natural crystal formed stone that is found within the Earths  crust. Quartz can take form as Tigers-eye, Rose, Amethyst or Opal etc.

RETRO:
Geometric shaped and inspired jewellery starting from the 1940.

RING:
A strip or band of metal that is formed into a circle and worn on the finger or thumb. Rings can be adorned with stones and can be worn as a symbol of commitment or identity.

RING SIZE:
There are numerous methods that measure an individual finger and identifying a ring that will fit on a finger. A cone can be used whereby the ring slips over it and the gauge is read along the shaft of the cone. Single rings can be used or cut holes into card. The diameter and the circumference of a finger can be used to determine the ring size.

RIVETING:
A joining process that does not use soldering. A hole is made in 2 separate pieces and are joined with a screw type device constructed from the same metal as the adjoining parts.

RONDELLA:
Small platelets or disks which sit in between beaded jewellery.

ROSARY:
A string of beads which sit in a Rosemary or 'Y' style shape. They are traditionally used for prayer within the Roman Catholic Church. It has now transitioned into a fashion necklace as a sign of faith and peace.

RUTHENIUM:
Part of the platinum group of metal, ruthenium is a precious metal which can be used as plating to harden softer metals such as other platinum alloys.

SAFETY CATCH:
Used as a precautionary measure on a clasp which needs a additional hinged loop on one side that can be snapped shut using a stud on the second part of a clasp or chain. This feature prevents loss on the item.

SAFETY CHAIN:
Used as a precautionary measure on a clasp which needs an additional length of chain in-between the 2 parts of a clasp. So in case a clasp breaks the piece of jewellery will not fall off the wearer. This feature prevents loss on the item.

SATIN FINISH:
A brushed or matte finish (Low-shine) is produced on the surface of metal using fine scratched lines from a wire brush or polishing device.

SHANK:
The part of the ring that wraps around the finger, or the back of the ring.

SHOULDER:
The part of the ring between the shank (Back) and the setting (Front).

SILVER:
A metal often used to construct jewellery. The white metal is naturally soft so is usually alloyed with copper to create a metal suitable for jewellery making.

SILVERTONE:
Non 925 silver (Sterling) which is used to plate another metal.

STAINLESS STEEL:
A steel alloy which is now used within jewellery construction. The rust, corrosion and stain resistant properties of this metal make it perfect for jewellery. 316L is the grade of steel used for jewellery as is will not tarnish black when oxidised.

TIGERS-EYE:
Semi-precious quartz stone which is identified by the yellow/brown layered colour, much like a tiger.

TITANIUM:
A light and extremely strong metal. Originally used by companies such as NASA. The dark grey property of the metal makes it perfect for jewellery. It is Nickel free.

WHITE METAL:
A mixture of alloys of non-precious metals.